Tapa? It’s a backgammon variation. The word itself means “bottle cap” and it’s an appropriate name because one player is looking to block out the other opponent’s pieces.

The movement of the checkers and the objective of “tapa” are same as backgammon, except for one important difference: a blot (single checker) is not taken out when its hit but rather the opponent’s checker rest on top of the blot and by doing that forms a point.

A player can also form points in the usual way by placing two or more of his own checkers in the same slot.

If a player leaves a blot in one of his home slots and gets it covered, the players certainly loses a backgammon (unless the opponent has done the same, in this case it’s a tie).

A long doublet (5 and 5 or 6 and 6) in the first stages of “tapa” can be useful because the opponent might have some blots in his home slots and the player might be able to cover them.

The closer this happens to the opponent’s home slots the better, because the later the player will free the blot as he’s bearing off.

Tapa is definitely a game of strategy.

A player will need to utilize strategy when caught close to his own home, he will need to force his opponent to free his blot, by blocking his checkers creating a situation that he will not have any other option to move.

If neither of the players gets caught early in the game. Both of them try to move their checkers in almost prime formations. This will create a situation when the opponents try pass through each other.

When I was in the country I noticed that people actually play three games – backgammon, Gul Bara, and Tapa in a row.

The cube isn’t used and there are no backgammons, but there are gammons.

These games (or their names) came to Bulgaria from Turkey.

I was told that backgammon is probably the most favorite recreation among Bulgarian retirees.

So I aksed him about it. Asked him to teach me. And so he did.

His game (also common in neighboring Iran, he said) is called Takhtch. Tavla in Turkey. Both games are similar, but different from the more traditional U.S. game.

Here’s how:
First, the setup: The setup AND movement are the same as in regular backgammon. Each player starts with two checkers on the opponent’s one-point, five checkers on the opponent’s twelve-point, three checkers on their own eight-point, and five checkers on their own six point.

Object: The object of the game is to move all of your checkers into your own home board and then bear them off. The first player to bear off all his checkers wins the game.

To start: Each player rolls one die and the higher number goes first. That player then rolls the dice again to begin his first turn. After the first game, the winner of the previous game goes first.

Movement: The roll of the dice indicates how many points, or pips, the player is to move his checkers. So far, so good. Right?

The following rules apply:

• A checker may be moved only to an open point, one that is not occupied by two or more opposing checkers.
• The numbers on the two dice constitute separate moves. For example, if a player rolls 5 and 3, he may move one checker five spaces to an open point and another checker three spaces to an open point, or he may move the one checker a total of eight spaces to an open point, but only if the intermediate point (either three or five spaces from the starting point) is also open.
• Doubles are played twice. For example, a roll of 6-6 means the player has four sixes to use.
• You must use both numbers of a roll if possible, or all four numbers in the case of doubles.

Hitting: A checker sitting alone on a point is called a blot. If an opposing checker lands on a blot, the blot is hit and placed on the bar.

You may not run for cover after hitting an opposing blot in your own home board. If you choose to hit within your home board, you must cover the hitting checker with another of your own checkers or leave it exposed.

Entering from the bar: Any time you have one or more checkers on the bar, your first obligation is to enter those checker(s) into the opposing home board. You enter a checker by moving it to an open point corresponding to one of the numbers on the rolled dice. If you are able to enter some but not all of your checkers, you must enter as many as you can then give up the remainder of your turn.

Bearing Off: Once you have moved all fifteen of your checkers into your home board, you may begin bearing off. You bear off rolling a number that corresponds to the point on which the checker resides, and then removing that checker from the board.

No checker on the point indicated by the roll? Then you must make a legal move using a checker on a higher-numbered point. If there are no checkers on higher-numbered points, you are permitted to remove a checker from the highest point that has one.

You cannot “waste pips” during bearoff. This means you should always bear off a checker where possible rather than use a smaller number to move that checker forward.

White must use the 5 to bear off the checker on the three-point. He may not play the 2 first, for that would waste pips.

If a checker is hit during bearoff, it must be reentered and returned to the player’s finishing table before that player can resume bearing off his checkers.

Scoring: The first player to bear off all fifteen checkers wins the game. If the losing player has borne off at least one checker, he loses only one point. If the losing player has not borne off any checkers, he loses two points.

There is no doubling in this game.

Try it. You’ll like it.

I did.

Your good thoughts meant a whole lot to me.

Now, to our continuing series on backgammon variants: Tapa.

The meaning of the word “tapa” is “bottle cap” and it’s a good name because one player is looking to block out the other opponent’s pieces.

The movement of the checkers and the objective of “tapa” are same as backgammon, except for one key difference: a blot (single checker) is not taken out when its hit but rather the opponent’s checker rest on top of the blot and by doing that forms a point.

A player can also form points in the usual way by placing two or more of his own checkers in the same slot.

If a player leaves a blot in one of his home slots and gets it covered, the players certainly loses a backgammon (unless the opponent has done the same, in this case it’s a tie).

A long doublet (5 and 5 or 6 and 6) in the first stages of “tapa” can prove very useful because the opponent might have some blots in his home slots and the player might be able to cover them.

The closer this happens to the opponent’s home slots the better, because the later the player will free the blot as he’s bearing off.

There is a lot of strategy involved here. Experts suggest you move slower rather than faster.

Primes are not always useful for example when the opponent has enough room for short moves behind the prime.

If neither of the players gets caught early in the game. Both of them try to move their checkers in almost prime formations. This will create a dramatic situation when the opponents try pass through each other.

Where is Tapa popular? Bulgaria.

Here is how to play: I found these instructions online. So beware. I haven’t played the game yet myself.

Setup: Each player starts with fifteen checkers on the rightmost point of the far side of the board, at diagonally opposite corners from each other. They both move in the same direction, counterclockwise, around the board.

Object: The object of the game is to move all your checkers around the board and bear them off. White bears off at the lower-right; Red bears off at the upper-left.

To start: Both players roll one die and the higher number goes first. That player rolls the dice again to begin his turn. After the first game, the winner of the previous game goes first.

Movement: The roll of the dice indicates how many points, or pips, the player is to move his checkers. The following rules apply:

• A checker may be moved only to an open point, one that is not occupied by any opposing checkers.
• The numbers on the two dice constitute separate moves. For example, if you roll 5 and 3, you may move one checker five spaces to an open point and another checker three spaces to an open point, or you may move the one checker a total of eight spaces to an open point, but only if the intermediate point (either three or five spaces from the starting point) is also open.
• Doubles are played twice. For example, a roll of 6-6 means you have four sixes to use.
• You must use both numbers of a roll if possible, or all four numbers in the case of doubles. If you can play one number but not both, you must play the higher one.

Moving off the “head”: The starting point for either player is called that player’s “head.” You may move only one checker off of your head each turn. The one exception is the first roll of the game in which you may move two checkers off your head. Two off the head is forced when a player rolls 3-3, 4-4, or 6-6 for his first roll.

No hitting: A major difference between Narde and other forms of backgammon is that there is no hitting in this game. One checker by itself controls a point, and an opposing checker may not land or touch down there.

Limitation on primes: You may not build a prime (six consecutive blocks) in front of all of the opponent’s checkers; at least one opposing checker must be in front of your prime.

Bearing off: Once you have moved all fifteen of your checkers into their finishing table, you may begin bearing off. You bear off a checker by rolling a number that corresponds to the point on which it resides, then removing the checker from the board.

If there is no checker on the point indicated by the roll, you must make a legal move using a checker on a higher-numbered point. If there are no checkers on higher-numbered points, you must remove a checker from the highest point that has a checker.

Scoring: The first player to bear off all his checkers wins the game and scores one point. If the winner bears off all his checkers before the loser has borne off any, he gets two points.

Remember when you were a kid (at least in the USA) and you played a game called Acey Ducey?

I do. Remember, that is.

The rules of acey-deucy are similar to the rules of backgammon.

Except that the player can move any checker he wants at any time, whether or not he has checkers to bring in; and when the player rolls 1-2 or acey-deucy he will first play ace-deuce and then he will play any number he want four times (in acey-deucy after the player rolls 1-2 he can play any double he wants).

Then the player gets an extra roll, and if the extra roll is 1-2 the rule is in apply again.

The strategy for acey-deucy is to try to make advance points as soon as possible and if possible also to make adjacent points as base for a prime.

Get it?

If the two sides both create primes right up against one another, the advantage will be with the farther advanced prime.

Even if that the player with farther-advanced prime has to break his first, the odds are still in his favor to win the game; if he can hold his prime longer, the odds of him winning only go up, and he’ll probably win the game.

Let’s talk more about Acey Ducey next time.

Has anyone out there played the game…as I once did?

Love to hear from you.